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    Home  >  Programms  >  Elbrus climb from the West 2012

    Programms » Elbrus climb from the West 2012

    Elbrus climb from the West 2012
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    Programm managers

    Marina Migurskaya
    Marina Migurskaya
    Telephone: +7(495) 229-50-70 äîá. 106
    E-mail: chief@elbrus-team.ru
    ICQ:  642660477
    Skype: chief.elbrus-team.ru
    Mobile: +7 928 6514748

    Victoria Voroshilova
    Victoria Voroshilova
    Telephone: +7 (495) 229-50-70
    E-mail: general@elbrus-team.ru
    ICQ:  632218819
    Skype: agent1.elbrus-team.ru
    Mobile: (928) 692-9472

    Viktor Yanchenko
    Viktor Yanchenko
    Telephone: +7(495) 229-50-70 äîá. 105
    E-mail: director@elbrus-team.ru
    ICQ:  646283991
    Skype: director.elbrus-team.ru
    Mobile: 8 (928) 225-4623


    Programm guides

    Daniil Timofeev
    Eugene Pismenny
    Sergey Fursov
    Sergey Isaev
    Sergey Romanov
    Viktor Yanchenko
    (Write Your Own Review)
    Tourism types: Mountaineering
    Region: Russia » Caucasus » Elbrus
    Level of Proficiency: good physical training, mountaineering preparation are desirable (you will obtain necessary mountaineering knowledge and habits during the acclimatizing outputs)
    Group size: From 5 Pax
    Length of Tour: 12 days, 11 nights
    Cost of Tour: 55900 RUB
    Rate:   € 39.39;   $ 30.94


     The route of ascending on Elbrus from the West - this is ascending without the cableways, without ratraks, without the hotels and shelters. It is guaranteed that you have never seen something of the kind  before. Powerful ice formation, rock walls, including famous wall Kyukyurtlyu are exposed to your view from the glade of Dzhily- suu, and it produces an impression of Himalayan apex. In the base camp on the glade of Dzhily- suu mineral springs await you. Warm baths and numerous drinkable springs. Absolutely wild places will give to you the unforgettable impression from the ascending. You will dive into a real expeditionary life, full of adventures. WE ARE THE ONLY TRAVEL COMPANY OPERATING IN THE WESTERN REGION.

    Route: Mineralnye Vody - Kislovodsk – glade Karachay Dzhily- suu - camp on the moraine - camp on the western shoulder - Elbrus Western – Pyatigorsk - Mineralnye Vody airport.

    Elbrus Western Route Description

    Route of the trip: Mineralnye Vody- Cherkessk – Karachaevsk – Uchkulan – Khurzuk – Dzhilysu Glade.

    From Khurzuk to Dzhilysu Glade you can drive only by 4x4 vehicles. The Base camp is situated in the upper part, above the shepherds’ house on a wide glade. There are no trees or bushes on the galde. A stream is in 50m from the camp.
    Base camp altitude 2670 m.

    From the BC to the right to the Bityuk-tyube gorge go along the left side of the gorge until 2 streams flow together. Go down the canyon and cross the stream. Then move along the grassy and stony slopes with a slow right turn. From here you can see the Bityuk-tyube glacier and the “Utyug” rock. Camp 1 is situated on the Bityuk-tyube moraine on a plane space. There is space for about 6 tents. You can find a stream in 5 m.
    Camp 1 altitude 3497 m.

    From camp 1 move along the moraine in the“Utyug” rock direction. Go up to the “Utyug” rock along a stony ridge. All participants should have helmets on them, no rope needed. Under the “Utyug” rock you can place an intermediate camp, but there is not much place. The tent place are on the stones. Water is melted from snow onlyIn August there can be some streams from the glacier. On the ice-snowy slope it is good to train.
    Camp 2 “Utyug” rock”, altitude 3946 m.

    Then you go up the middle-steepness slope close to the “Utyug” rock . Then traverse to the right up to the snowy slope. All participants should have helmets on. Up the snowy-icy slope 20 m up 50° (fixed ropes are needed), then up a gently sloping 35-40° till a gate rock dividing Biyuk-tyube and Kuytuyrtlyu valleys. The place for camp 2. Space enough for 5 tents on the snow and 1-2 tents on the stony platform. Melted snow for water. In August you can dig a snow pit for gathering water.
    Camp 3 altitude 4192 m.

    The next part of the route is the most complicated and dangerous. From the gate you go up a snowy slope 35-40° for 150 m. All participants should have helmets and ice-axes. Then traverse to the right up an icy-snowy slope. According to the snow amount on the slope the group goes up the foxed ropes or using ice-axes. Move in the “Nosik” gendarme direction about 200m. As traverse is done under the ice-fall – do it in the first part of the day only using helmets, ice-axes, ascenders.
    “Nosik” altitude 4429 m.
    From “Nosik” gendarme up a snowy slope traversing a rocky gendarme from the right coming to the Western plateau. Camp 3 place. Much space for tents. It is advisable that you make a wind-proof walls for the tents. Melted snow for water only. If there is no visibility because of a bad weather move by GPS only.
    Camp 4 altitude 4653 m.

    From the plateau up the snowy slope a steepest , altitude 4763 m. It is possible to move without helmets but using ice-axes. Exit from the steepest part to the left directing the rocks, a flat place good for resting. altitude 4976 m.
    Then move along a rocky ridge in the direction of the Elbrus Western peak Intermediate point 1- altitude 5189 m.
    Rocky ridge - altitude 5356 m.
    Intermediate point 2 - altitude 5543 m.
    Elbrus Western top - altitude 5646 m.
    To descend from the top it is netter a bit to the right from the rocky ridge going down the snowy fields. Ice-axes needed.

    Tour Program

    Day 1. Day 1.
    Arrival to Mineralnye Vody.
    Accommodation in the hotel
    in Kislovodsk or Pyatigorsk, free time.

    Day 2. Day 2.
    Transfer to the base camp on the glade of Dzhily- suu in the gorge of Ullu-Khurzuk. (5-7 hr).

    Day 3. Day 3.
    Acclimatization. (height of 3500 m). Jaunts and bathing in the mineral sources of Dzhily-suu.

    Day 4. Day 4.
    Up to the camp on the moraine (height of 3500 m).
    Acclimatization. Radial outings, training on the snowy- icy slope.
    4-5 hours

    Day 5. Day 5.
    Up to the upper camp on the western shoulder at the height of 4000 m.
    Snowy-icy training on the slope.
    Going up a moraine 3 hours. From the 1st camp 3500m 2 hours up to a saddle under the “Utyug” rock. Stony slope up to 20° steepness.
    Helmets should be available.

    Day 6. Day 6.
    Up to the camp on the western arm, to the of height of 4200 m.
    The most complicated part of the route is on the way from the saddle under the “Utyug” rock (marked 1 on the picture) up to the place marked 4 on the Western plateau. The part 1-2 is a traverse 400m by a stony slope. Part 2-3 is a snowy slope 30° 40m, then 15° 60 m In place pointed 3 there is a place for a possible bivoic.

    Day 7. Day 7.
    Up to the upper camp on the western arm to the height of 4700 m.
    Part 3-4 up the snowy slope 20° 20 m, then traverse to the right from that slope 300m coming the Western plateu.

    Day 8. Day 8.
    Ascending day
    Early ascent (start at 3 o'clock. Ascent to the Elbrus Western 5642m and descent to the camp 4600 m. Night in the camp.

    Day 9. Day 9.
    Reserve day in the case of bad weather. Descent to the camp 3500 m.

    Day 10. Day 10.
    Descent to the base camp 2500m.
    Jaunts and bathing in the mineral sources of Dzhily-suu.

    Day 11. Day 11.
    Departure to Kislovodsk or Pyatigorsk.
    Accommodation in the hotel.

    Day 12. Day 12.
    Breakfast, transfer to the Mineral Vody airport

    Tour Cost Includes
    1. “Alpindustria” staff company for all the program.
    2. Transport. All transfers according to the program.
    3. Accommodation. Double hotel*** DBL rooms: in Kislovodsk or Pyatigorsk – 2 nights HB
    4. Accommodation in the base camp and way camps according to the program (9 nights). Accommodation in the tent.
    5. An English -speaking guide.
    6. Food. Full board in the Caucasus - breakfast in hotel restaurants. 2 meals when in the base and way camps + Pocket lunch while treks and climbing.
    7. Use of group equipment (tents, ropes, kitchen)
    8. Certificates on Elbrus expedition.
    9. Cook service for Elbrus climbing.
    10. Local and state tourist taxes:
    a. Passports registration;
    b. Border area Pass;
    c. Visa invitation;
    d. National Park permit for climbing

    Not Included in the Cost of the Program
    1. Additional food and drinks.
    2. Single accommodation.
    3. Equipment rental.
    4. Extra night in a hotel if coming from Elbrus earlier than it was planned.
    5. Excursions and entertainment in Kislovodsk/Pyatigorsk

    Not included:
    Domestic and international air fare. Insurance.
    Moscow service

    Important:
    Only ONE attempt of climbing Elbrus is included.

    For extra fee:
    Satellite telephone call
    Laptop usage to look through the pictures to make a CD/DVD copy

    Necessary documents
    During the trip:
    - for the Russians – Russian passport
    - for the foreign citizens - international passport, migration card (given while crossing the Russian border), visa stamp.
    For booking:
    – passport copy

    Transport
    For transfer we use comfortable off-roads (depending on the group size) like Land Rover, ex-military truck GAZ-66 or UAZ. Transfer airport – hotel – airport is a group one and is made once on the arrival day and once on the departure day. In case of necessity we can book an individual car for extra fee.

    Residence conditions
    We deal with the best hotels "Intourist”***, "Grand Hotel"***
    These are modern comfortable hotels with all necessary structure, good rooms, polite and professional personnel.
    At the Base camp and at the storm camp on 4600m we stay at the comfortable 2-bed tents.

    Servicer
    You will be accompanied by a guide of our Company. “Alpindustria” staff is at your service. There is 1 guide, porters, cook and assistant guide on the climbing day for a group of 4 persons and more. The personnel size depends on the group size.

    Servicer
    Full board in the Caucasus - 2 meals a day in hotel restaurants. Pocket lunch while touring and climbing. We offer you complete and balanced meals useful for people exercising up in the mountains. They include vegetables, meat, fish, bread, cereals, tea, coffee, and milk.
    If you have food restrictions (for example you are a vegetarian), you should warn us beforehand. We’ll try our best to make you feel comfortable.

    Weather
    At the height of 5,000 m or more, the weather is rather cold: -20 in summer; -40 in winter. Base camp - +15-+30 in summer, 0-+15 in spring and autumn. At 3500m -2- +20 in summer, -5—30 in spring and autumn.
    Sometimes wild winds blow. We prepare ourselves for the worst weather conditions. At the same time, it can be rather hot down the valley.

    Medicine
    During the trips the guide has the first medical kit. In any place it is possible to contact the Rescue service. It is necessary for you to have individual medicines.

    expense
    Airflight Moscow-Mineralnye Vody-Moscow costs about 8000-10000 rub. If coming from Elbrus to the hotel earlier than it was planned the guest is responsible for extra night in hotels. There is no refund for the huts booked beforehand. Please meet this with respect. In the rush season there are not places available for all the coming people. So we book the sleeping places beforehand considering all reserve days.
    It is worth buying souvenirs, plan it in your budget.
    In the valley there are many cafes and restaurants, mostly local cuisine. Dinner or lunch will cost you 300 rub and more.

    Clothes and equipment

    Ascent Clothing
    Thermal underwear.
    Sweater/thin fleece shirt.
    Fleece/windblock jacket and trousers.
    Gortex (membrane tissue) jacket and trousers.
    Warm cap.
    Wind-proof mask (balaclava)
    Mittens (it’s better to have two pairs).
    Warm socks.
    Leggings/pants
    You can take a warm down jacket with you.
    Plastic or leather boots designed for ascents. It’s better to have welted boots and climbing crampons with automatic bindings.
    Equipment
    Comfortable climbing harness.
    4 carabiners.
    Sling
    Ice-axe.
    Telescope ski poles.
    Sun glasses.
    Sun cream.
    Helmet
    Climbing crampons with automatic bindings (matching your boots).
    Torch
    Sometimes, we have a rest sitting on a stone, that’s why it’s good to have a carrimat to sit on. You can use it inside your tent: it can be placed under a gas stove or a hot pan.
    Carry mat/inflatable mat to sleep on in the snow.
    Sleeping bag to keep you warm when camping (a comfortable temperature of +10).
    You should have your own spoon, mug, and knife.

    Equipment rental. The price of the full set of equipment for Elbrus climbing is from 1000 rub per day for 1 pax. For booking equipment you should inform us beforehand giving the boot and clothes sizes.



    Safety
    Climbing Mt.Elbrus is an active kind of sport in the mountains potentially dangerous for the life and health for all the participants of this program.. Our guides will provide the necessary level of safety in case you will follow the Safety Instruction. The guide has a radio, GPS, mobile telephone, all necessary group equipment.
    Decision of stopping the program when the weather and snow conditions impose a threat to lives of the participants is in exclusive competency of the guide accompanying the group on the route and can not be discussed. The guide is responsible for providing safety on all kinds of mountain relief.
    All guests should have medical insurance in case of incidents or immediate illness which can cover medical and other expenses in emergency.

    Payment conditions
    Please meet our rules of payment conditions.
    To provide a successful and safe realization of the program we are to undertake definite efforts and preparation which require expenses.
    Down payment when booking is 5000 rub. In case you cancel the trip it is not refundable.
    Full payment should be done not later than 20 days prior to the beginning of the program. If the full payment is not done in this term we consider the trip cancelled and quit the booking. Please, be aware that the first payment is not refunded in this case.
    You can pay in cash in our offices in Moscow and Terskol and make a bank money transfer.

    Mobile connection
    During any trek or hike the guide has a radio and a satellite telephone at his disposal. It is possible to get the connection in any place. There is no mobile connection at the base camp and higher. You can have the satellite connection for extra fee.
    WiFi is available at the hotels.



    You got question? Call us +7(495) 229-50-70 (Moscow)


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