Tourism types: Mountaineering, climbing|
Region: Russia » Caucasus » Elbrus Region (Prielbrusye)
Level of Proficiency: elementary alpine
Length of Tour: 8 days, 7 nights
|Guaranteed by Alpindustria
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Our guides are well aware of all the features of the route of ascent to Mount Elbrus from the south and how best to prepare for successful ascent. Elbrus does not generally present any technical difficulty, but there lies its craftiness, as due to recurrent inclement weather conditions here, it can be very dangerous to scale the mountain in the winter without the help of experienced instructors.
Our representative will meet you at the airport Mineralnye Vody and take you to the hotel by an arranged transport.
The next four days are aimed at your optimal acclimatization for the upcoming ascent to Mount Elbrus. The training program (acclimatization) includes outing on the slopes of Mount Cheget (3452 m), where pleasant weather conditions present a striking view of the Mount Elbrus, Donguz-Orun, Nakru and many other beautiful summits of the region, climbing to a height of 4050 m up to the former Shelter 11 and reaching out to the Pastukhov rocks (4600 m). The ascent is scheduled on the 6th or 7th day, which usually takes 9 to 14 hours together with the descent.
Description of ascent route (snow and ice) to Elbrus from South 2a category of difficulty
1. Barrels (3780m) to Shelter (4050m) takes 1.5 hours. Move along the snow-and-ice fields. There can be cracks in the area of the plateau before the ascent to Shelter 11. Be careful!
2. Shelter (4050m) to Pastukhov Rocks (4600m) takes about 2 to 3 hours. The rise trails between two rocky ridges (4300m), further snow-and-ice rise (15 to 20 degrees, 50 m) with an exit to the plateau under Pastukhov rocks. The climb to the "Pastukhov Rocks" is along the closed glacier (20 °). There are no cracks here. There exists an approach along the plateau under the bottom stones of Pastukhov Rocks (5 degrees, a rock-fall is not ruled out in a summer afternoon). Then, climb to the top of Pastukhov rocks through snow-and-ice slope of 15 to 20° steep.
3. Pastukhov Rocks (4600m) to Slanting Shelf (5000m) takes about 1 to 1.5 hours. Snow-and-ice rise of 500 to 600 m has a slope of 15 to 20°. The ascent is straight up, avoiding the bends of ice (but you should not go far to the left, not to fall under the faults on the southern cirque glacier) and by turning to the left, we go out to Slanting Shelf (5000m).
4. Slanting shelf (5000m) to Motorcycle couloir (5340m) takes about 2 to 2.5 hours. It is rather a flat traverse with a smooth climb. The steepness of slope on the inclined traverse is 15 °, and in some places, up to 25°.
5. Motorcycle couloir (5340m) to Saddle (5350m) takes about 20 to 30 min. Take a detour around the foot of the eastern peak (400 to 500 m) below. On this site, one can sense the smell of sulfur dioxide emitted from fumaroles on the southern slope. In case of an adverse wind, it poses a serious hurdle to the hikers. Traverse to get to the saddle, and move cautiously on the trails, as there can be cracks. On the left, under the slopes of the western summit, at the beginning of snow trough is the structure of an old ruined hut, and in front of it at the top of the eastern summit, a new hut has been built, designed solely for rescuing persons caught up in inclement, extreme weather conditions during the ascent (construction of the hut was completed in August 2010).
6. Saddle (5350m) to the point of entry into the summit plateau (5550m) takes about 1 to 1.5 hours. At 50m from the hut, turn right and along fairly steep snow slope (30 to 35°), climb up to the rocky ridge. There may be ice patch before the ridge. At this point, there can be movement on the railing.
7. Summit plateau (5550m) to the top of West Elbrus (5642m). Hence climb up and left on the summit plateau. Through a 400-meter flat area, we reach a low dome of the top (40 minutes to 1 hour).
8. The peak of Mount Elbrus West is a small, snow and ice rise of 15° steep with a stone pedestal at the top.
9. Descend via the ascent route.
Attention! In the case of weather getting rough, it becomes difficult to focus on long and smooth slopes of Elbrus! When there appear lenticular (lens-shaped) clouds above the top or cloudiness over Ushba and Donguz-Orun, it is necessary to either postpone or cancel the hiking. The time period from the first signs of bad weather to complete loss of visibility may take up to 3 hours.
Technically simple ascent to Elbrus from the South makes it possible to see the entire Caucasus from a height. The changing panorama, as one climbs up, leaves an everlasting impression. Especially the ascent made at dawn is memorable, when a huge shadow of Mount Elbrus rises over the horizon in the west under the rays of the rising sun.
Route: Mineralnye Vody airport- Terskol - hotel - Barrels on Elbrus - Elbrus top 5642m - Barrels on Elbrus - Terskol - hotel - Mineralnye Vody airport
Arrive at Mineralnye Vody, meet our representative, and transfer to Elbrus region (journey time is about 3 to 3.5 hours). Accommodation at hotel. Discuss the program with the guide, Look at and select personal equipment, prepare yourself to ascend to the Cheget.
Ascend by chair lifts "Cheget" in two lines up to a height of 3000m. (30 minutes). Acclimatization trip to the shoulder of Cheget (3452 m) and up 1 to 2 hours. There is a good viewing platform atop overlooking the Elbrus, the Greater Caucasus Mountain Range. The route runs along a rocky ridge. A small snack, a packed lunch and descend to 2 Cheget Chair lift station (40 minutes). Exit takes about 3 to 5 hours. Return to the hotel. Meet your guide, discuss the program for the next day, look at and select your personal equipment, prepare yourself for hiking to the Diesel Hat.
Ascend by shuttle ropeway up to Mir station, and then by chair lift to Garabashi station. Azau (2200m) - Staryi Krugozor (2950) - Mir (3500) - Garabashi (3840m)
Acclimatization trip to Diesel Hat (4050 m), climbing up along a snowy plateau with moderate rise (8 to 10 degrees) for about 1 to 1.5 hours, a little rest in the area of Diesel hat, packed lunch and descend down to the high-altitude shelter (20 to 30 minutes). Overnight stay in the high-altitude shelter (3830). Discuss the program for the next day, look at and select your personal equipment, prepare yourself for climbing to the mountainous area and the Pastukhov rocks. Overnight.
Acclimatization hike to Pastukhov Rocks (4600 m). Ascend for about 3 to 4.5 hours and descend for about 1 to 1.5 hours. Carry out snow and ice activities. Discuss the program for the next day, look at and select your personal equipment, prepare yourself for the ascent. Overnight stay in the high-altitude shelter.
Rest day. Accommodation in the high-altitude shelter
Day of ascent. The ascent takes place along the route 2a category of difficulty. Early start at 3 am, if you use ratrak up to Pastukhov Rocks, you can start at 4 am.
Duration of ascent is 12 to 16 hours (8 to 12 hours of climb and 4 to 5 hours of descent). We put on crampons in the morning, when leaving the high-altitude shelter. The trail to the summit is marked with poles, but you can only go up in good weather! There are a lot of cracks on the glacier covered with snow, so it is better not to go from the trail. In the summer, the trail is all the way. We should go in crampons! In the summer, ice exits are rarely seen, but there are areas of hard firn. In May and November, the slope to the saddle can have long stretches of pure ice. In this case, the route is accessible to trained athletes. Particularly dangerous is the longest descent (3.5 km at about 30° steep). Overnight stay in the high-altitude shelter
Descent to Azau, lunch at the cafe, transfer to the hotel, accommodation at the hotel. Free time, Presentation of certificates.
Breakfast at the hotel, group transfer to the airport Mineralnye Vody (3 to 3.5 hours), departure.
1. “Alpindustria” staff company for all the program.
2. Transport. All transfers according to the program (Minvody airport – hotel- airport, transfers in the region).
3. Accommodation. Double hotel rooms: “Ozon” – 3 nights HB,
4. The mountain hut 3900 m accommodation on Elbrus 4 nights FB.
5. An English -speaking guide.
6. Elbrus and Cheget cable-way/chair lift return tickets according to the program.
7. Food. Full board in the Caucasus - 2 meals a day in hotel restaurants. Lunch in cafes. Pocket lunch while touring and climbing.
8. Certificates on Elbrus expedition.
9. Cook service on Elbrus.
10. Rental kitchen equipment.
11. Tickets for cableway\chairlift during the program
12. Guide-assistant for the climbing period
(for groups more than 4 persons)
13. Local and state tourist taxes:
a. Passports registration;
b. Border area Pass;
c. Visa invitation;
1. Single accommodation.
2. Additional food and drinks.
3. Additional transfers and cable-way tickets (not included in the program)
4. Equipment rental.
5. Ratrak (snow grooming machine) for climbing. (300 euro per ratrak)
6. Extra night in Elbrus hotel if coming from Elbrus earlier than it was planned.
7. National Park permit for climbing
Domestic and international air fare. Insurance.
Only ONE attempt of climbing Elbrus is included.
During the trip:
- for foreign citizens - international passport, migration card, visa.
At the height of 5,000 m or more, it can be rather cold: -20 in summer; -40 in winter. Sometimes wild winds blow. We prepare ourselves for the worst weather conditions. At the same time, it can be rather hot down in the valley at the same time.
Equipment rental. The price of the full set of equipment for Elbrus climbing is from 1000 rub per day for 1 pax. For booking equipment you should inform us beforehand giving the boot and clothes sizes.
Sweater/thin fleece shirt.
Fleece/windblock jacket and trousers.
Gortex (membrane tissue) jacket and trousers.
Wind-proof mask (balaclava)
Mittens (it’s better to have two pairs).
You can take a warm down jacket with you.
Plastic or leather boots designed for ascents. It’s better to have welted boots and climbing crampons with automatic bindings.
Comfortable climbing harness.
Telescope ski poles.
Climbing crampons with automatic bindings (matching your boots).
Sometimes, we have a rest sitting on a stone, that’s why it’s good to have a carrimat to sit on. You can use it inside your tent: it can be placed under a gas stove or a hot pan.
Carry mat/inflatable mat to sleep on in the snow.
Sleeping bag to keep you warm when camping (a comfortable temperature of +10).
You should have your own spoon, mug, and knife.
Climbing Mt.Elbrus is an active kind of sport in the mountains potentially dangerous for the life and health for all the participants of this program.. Our guides will provide the necessary level of safety in case you will follow the Safety Insruction. The guide has a radio, GPS, mobile telephone, all necessary group equipment.
Decision of stopping the programme when the weather and snow conditions impose a threat to lives of the participants is in exclusive competency of the guide accompanying the group on the route and can not be discussed. The guide is responsible for providing safety on all kinds of mountain relief.
All guests should have medical insurance in case of incidents or immediate illness which can cover medical and other expenses in emergency.
Depending on the number of persons in each group, transport is provided:
• Comfortable passenger cars or minibuses for 10 to 15 persons (Volkswagen, Mercedes-Benz, etc.).
Important: Prepaid transfer for airport - hotel - airport is available only part of a group once on the day of arrival and once on the departure day. At your request, we can book a private transfer by a passenger car for an additional fee.
We ascend to the high-altitude shelter by cable cars, and ratrak can be used for reaching to Pastukhov rocks.
Our basic hotels are Ozon, Povorot and Chiran.
These are modern, comfortable hotels having all the necessary infrastructure and comfortable rooms, and with polite and responsive staff.
There are more spartan furnishings in the high-altitude shelters. Shelters are equipped with beds and a kitchen, toilet outside. The furniture includes beds with mattresses, blankets and pillows, a table and an electric heater. Temperature up to +18 C, the floor is colder (+5 C), and you will have to spend the night in a sleeping bag.
A guide from our company will be working with you. All employees of Alpindustria adventure Team are at your service.
Temperature in the Valley varies from 20 to 30 degrees. It can be from +15 to -5 on the mountain at an altitude of 3500 m, and from +10 to -15 on top depending on the weather. In bad weather, we try not to venture out.
In the valley, it can be up to -20, but this is rare, usually -5 to 10 degrees. On the mountain, the temperature can drop up to -40 at an altitude of 5000 m.
A First-aid kit to render first aid is available with the guide. At any time and in any place, the guide has the ability to communicate with the rescuers of MES. You should be in possession of specific individual medicines.
• Moscow - Mineralnye Vody - Moscow flight, international flights.
• In case of an early descent from the high-altitude shelter before the period stipulated in the program, hotel accommodation.
• Money paid for shelters, booked in advance in accordance with the tour program is not refunded. We earnestly hope that you understand these conditions well. In peak season, seats in the shelters are not adequate for all guests, so we book the seats in advance considering the required number of reserve days.
• Local souvenirs.
• Self-catering in the valley (the average price for lunch/supper starts from 300 rubles per head). In the valley, there are many cafes and restaurants, mostly of Caucasian cuisine.
• Climbing by ratrak on the day of ascent costs 600 euros per ratrak (a group of up to 10 persons).
• Excursion ticket by chair lift to Cheget costs 450 rubles per head and by shuttle ropeway to Azau costs 750 rubles per head.
• Please meet our rules of payment conditions. To provide a successful and safe realization of the program we are to undertake definite efforts and preparation which require expenses.
Down payment when booking is 5000 rub. In case you cancel the trip it is not refundable.
• Full payment should be done not later than 20 days prior to the beginning of the program. If the full payment is not done in this term we consider the trip cancelled and quit the booking.Please, be aware that the first payment is not refunded in this case.
• You can pay in cash in our offices in Moscow, make a bank money transfer or via credit card on-line.
During your stay at the hotel, half board meals are provided in the Elbrus region. On the mountain, a cook (for a group of 2 persons onwards) will cook for you, while packed lunch (sandwich, fruit, biscuits, chocolate and a pack of juice) is served during daytime acclimatization trips. Utensils are provided. Gas is available at Barrels.
If you have any restrictions on food, for example, you are a vegetarian, you must inform us in advance!
You got question? Call us +7(495) 229-50-70 (Moscow)