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Elbrus Climb from the West
Elbrus Climb from the West

Home  >  Russia. Caucasus. Elbrus Region (Prielbrusye)  >  Climbing Mount Elbrus from the West

Programms » Climbing Mount Elbrus from the West

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Description Calendar Photos (25) Reviews (0) Related News Articles (3)

Programm managers

Viktor Yanchenko
Viktor Yanchenko
Telephone: +7(495) 229-50-70 l.105
E-mail: director@elbrus-team.ru
Skype: director.elbrus-team.ru
Mobile: 8 (928) 225-4623

Marina Migurskaya
Marina Migurskaya
Telephone: +7 (495)229-50-70 (.106)
E-mail: chief@elbrus-team.ru
Skype: migur071
Mobile: +7(928) 651-47-48

Victoria Voroshilova
Victoria Voroshilova
Telephone: +7 (495) 229-50-70
E-mail: general@elbrus-team.ru
Skype: agent1.elbrus-team.ru
Mobile: +7(928)7167420


Programm guides

Daniil Timofeev
Sergey Fursov
Viktor Yanchenko
Rating: 
Marks: 6;   Reviews: 0
(Write Your Own Review)



Tourism types: Mountaineering, climbing, Training programms
Region: Russia » Caucasus » Elbrus Region (Prielbrusye)
Level of Proficiency: good physical training, mountaineering preparation are desirable (you will obtain necessary mountaineering knowledge and habits during the acclimatizing outputs)
Length of Tour: 12 days, 11 nights


Our strengths:

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Dates Program groupsize already booked comments
02-13.07.17. standard above 5 pax 1 available
02-13.08.17. standard above 5 pax 0 available

The route of ascent to Elbrus on the west is the shortest way to the highest point of Europe - West summit of Elbrus (5642m). Here, there are no ropeways, no ratraks, and a few goes on this route on foot. You've ever seen this Elbrus. Powerful glaciers, rock walls, including the famous wall Kukurtlu, open up the view from the Gil-Su Glade and give the impression of the Himalayan peaks. You await mineral springs in the base camp on Gil-Su Glade. There are warm baths and numerous sources of drinking. Absolutely primeval places will leave you an unforgettable experience of climbing. You will plunge into a real expedition life, full of adventures!

WARNINGWE ARE THE ONLY ONE TOUR OPERATOR IN THE WESTERN REGION.

The description of the route of an ascent Mt. Elbrus Western 3-a category of complexity.

1. From Khurzuk to Dzhilysu Glade you can drive only by 4x4 vehicles. The Base camp is situated in the upper part, above the shepherds’ house on a wide glade. There are no trees or bushes on the galde. A stream is in 50m from the camp.

Base camp altitude 2670 m.

2.  From the BC to the right to the Bityuk-tyube gorge go along the left side of the gorge until 2 streams flow together. Go down the canyon and cross the stream. Then move along the grassy and stony slopes with a slow right turn. From here you can see the Bityuk-tyube glacier and the “Utyug” rock. Camp 1 is situated on the Bityuk-tyube moraine on a plane space. There is space for about 6 tents. You can find a stream in 5 m.

Camp 1 altitude 3497 m.

3. From camp 1 move along the moraine in the“Utyug” rock direction. Go up to the “Utyug” rock along a stony ridge. All participants should have helmets on them, no rope needed. Under the “Utyug” rock you can place an intermediate camp, but there is not much place. The tent place are on the stones. Water is melted from snow onlyIn August there can be some streams from the glacier. On the ice-snowy slope it is good to train.

Camp 2 “Utyug” rock”, altitude 3946 m.

4. Then you go up the middle-steepness slope close to the “Utyug” rock . Then traverse to the right up to the snowy slope. All participants should have helmets on. Up the snowy-icy slope 20 m up 50° (fixed ropes are needed), then up a gently sloping 35-40° till a gate rock dividing Biyuk-tyube and Kuytuyrtlyu valleys. The place for camp 2. Space enough for 5 tents on the snow and 1-2 tents on the stony platform. Melted snow for water. In August you can dig a snow pit for gathering water.

Camp 3 altitude 4192 m.

5. The next part of the route is the most complicated and dangerous. From the gate you go up a snowy slope 35-40° for 150 m. All participants should have helmets and ice-axes. Then traverse to the right up an icy-snowy slope. According to the snow amount on the slope the group goes up the foxed ropes or using ice-axes. Move in the “Nosik” gendarme direction about 200m. As traverse is done under the ice-fall – do it in the first part of the day only using helmets, ice-axes, ascenders.

 “Nosik” altitude 4429 m.

 From “Nosik” gendarme up a snowy slope traversing a rocky gendarme from the right coming to the Western plateau. Camp 3 place. Much space for tents. It is advisable that you make a wind-proof walls for the tents. Melted snow for water only. If there is no visibility because of a bad weather move by GPS only.

Camp 4 altitude 4653 m.

6. From the plateau up the snowy slope a steepest , altitude 4763 m. It is possible to move without helmets but using ice-axes. Exit from the steepest part to the left directing the rocks, a flat place good for resting. altitude 4976 m.

Then move along a rocky ridge in the direction of the Elbrus Western peak Intermediate point 1- altitude 5189 m.

Rocky ridge - altitude 5356 m.

Intermediate point 2 - altitude 5543 m.

Elbrus Western top - altitude 5646 m.


 

Route: Mineralnye Vody - Pyatigorsk glade Karachay Dzhily- suu - camp on the moraine - camp on the western shoulder - Elbrus Western Pyatigorsk - Mineralnye Vody airport.

Itinerary (show)
Day 1.
Transfer Airport - Mineralnye Vody - Pyatigorsk (duration about 1 hour)
Accommodation in a hotel in Pyatigorsk
Look at and select your equipment for climbing
Free time.

Day 2.
Transfer Pyatigorsk - Cherkessk - Karachaevsk - Uchkulan - Khurzuk and further to the gorge on Glade Narzanov Dzhily- Suu - base camp in the valley of Ullu-Hurzuk
Duration 5 to 7 hours.

Day 3.
Acclimatization, Ascent to C1 camp on the moraine (altitude 3500m) and descent back to base camp. The route runs along broad grassy slopes, crosses the river and climbs up on the moraine of the glacier. You can carry some of your items.
Duration is 4 to 5 hours
Bathing in Dzhily- Suu springs.

Day 4.
Ascent to the Camp C1 (3500)
Acclimatization, Training on snow and icy slope
Duration is 4 to 5 hours.

Day 5.
Ascent to 3900m, radial exit, training on snow and icy slope
Morena, big and medium-sized sliding rocks, for 3 hours
Leave the equipment, snow and icy training for 2 hours, Descent to the camp C1 (3500)
From the first camp (3500m) to the bridge under the rock Utyug, the ascent passes through a rocky slope up to 20. All participants are required to be in helmets.

Day 6.
Ascent to the Camp C2 at 4200m, the most difficult part of the route is on the way from the bridge under the rock, "Utyug", marked "1" on the photo up to the western plateau, labeled 4.
Section 1 to 2 traverse 400m along the medium sized sliding rock. Section 2 to 3 snowy slope 30, 40m followed by 15 60m, a bivouac shelter is likely at the position "3".

Day 7.
Ascent to the upper camp C3 on the western shoulder up to an altitude of 4600 m
Section 3 to 4, climb up the snowy slope of 20 20 m, then traverse to the right of the slope 300 m, exit to the western plateau.

Day 8.
Day of Ascent
A snowy slope with an average steepness of 15 to 20 runs along the ridge of rocks from the camp on the western plateau (4600m) to the summit. The entire path is fully inspected and does not present any technical complexity. Overnight stay in the camp.

Day 9.
Attempt to climb (reserve day in case of bad weather). Descend to the camp at 3500m.

Day 10.
Descend to the Base camp at 2500m. Bathing in Dzhily- Suu Narzan springs.

Day 11.
Breakfast at the base camp. Transfer to Pyatigorsk. Accommodation in the hotel. Awarding certificates.

Day 12.
Breakfast at the hotel. Transfer to the Mineral Vody airport
Price includes (show)
1. Alpindustria staff company for all the program.
2. Transport. All transfers according to the program.
3. Accommodation. Double hotel*** DBL rooms: in Pyatigorsk 2 nights HB
4. Accommodation in the base camp and way camps according to the program (9 nights). Accommodation in the tent.
5. An English -speaking guide.
6. Food. Full board in the Caucasus - breakfast in hotel restaurants. 2 meals when in the base and way camps + Pocket lunch while treks and climbing.
7. Use of group equipment (tents, ropes, kitchen)
8. Certificates on Elbrus expedition.
9. Cook service for Elbrus climbing.
10. Local and state tourist taxes:
a. Passports registration;
b. Border area Pass;
c. Visa invitation;
Price does not include (show)
1. Additional food and drinks.
2. Single accommodation.
3. Equipment rental.
4. Extra night in a hotel if coming from Elbrus earlier than it was planned.
5. Excursions and entertainment in Kislovodsk/Pyatigorsk
6. National Park permit for climbing

Not included:
Domestic and international air fare. Insurance.
Moscow service

Important:
Only ONE attempt of climbing Elbrus is included.
Documents required (show)
During the trip:
- for the foreign citizens - international passport, migration card (given while crossing the Russian border), visa stamp.
Clothes and equipment (show)

 At the height of 5,000 m or more, it can be  rather cold: -20 in summer; -40 in winter. Sometimes wild winds blow. We prepare ourselves for the worst weather conditions. At the same time, it can be rather hot down in the valley at the same time.

Equipment rental. The price of the full set of equipment for Elbrus climbing is from 1000 rub per day for 1 pax. For booking equipment you should inform us beforehand giving the boot and clothes sizes.

Ascent Clothing

Thermal underwear.

Sweater/thin fleece shirt.

Fleece/windblock jacket and trousers.

Gortex (membrane tissue) jacket and trousers.

Warm cap.

Wind-proof mask (balaclava)

Mittens (it’s better to have two pairs).

Warm socks.

Leggings/pants

You can take a warm down jacket with you.

Plastic or leather boots designed for ascents. It’s better to have welted boots and climbing crampons with automatic bindings.

Equipment

Comfortable climbing harness.

4 carabiners.

Sling

Ice-axe.

Telescope ski poles.

Sun glasses.

Sun cream.

Helmet

Climbing crampons with automatic bindings (matching your boots).

Torch

Sometimes, we have a rest sitting on a stone, that’s why it’s good to have a carrimat to sit on. You can use it inside your tent: it can be placed under a gas stove or a hot pan.

Carry mat/inflatable mat to sleep on in the snow.

 Sleeping bag to keep you warm when camping (a comfortable temperature of +10).

You should have your own spoon, mug, and knife.

Safety (show)
Climbing Mt.Elbrus is an active kind of sport in the mountains potentially dangerous for the life and health for all the participants of this program.. Our guides will provide the necessary level of safety in case you will follow the Safety Instruction. The guide has a radio, GPS, mobile telephone, all necessary group equipment.
Decision of stopping the program when the weather and snow conditions impose a threat to lives of the participants is in exclusive competency of the guide accompanying the group on the route and can not be discussed. The guide is responsible for providing safety on all kinds of mountain relief.
All guests should have medical insurance in case of incidents or immediate illness which can cover medical and other expenses in emergency.
Medicine (show)
A First-aid kit to render first aid is available with the guide. At any time and in any place, the guide has the ability to communicate with the rescuers of MES. You should be in possession of specific individual medicines.
Extra costs (show)
Moscow - Mineralnye Vody - Moscow flight, international flights.
In case of an early descent from the high-altitude shelter before the period stipulated in the program, hotel accommodation.
Money paid for shelters, booked in advance in accordance with the tour program is not refunded. We earnestly hope that you understand these conditions well. In peak season, seats in the shelters are not adequate for all guests, so we book the seats in advance considering the required number of reserve days.
Local souvenirs.
Self-catering in the valley (the average price for lunch/supper starts from 300 rubles per head). In the valley, there are many cafes and restaurants, mostly of Caucasian cuisine.
Climbing by ratrak on the day of ascent costs 600 euros per ratrak (a group of up to 10 persons).
Excursion ticket by chair lift to Cheget costs 450 rubles per head and by shuttle ropeway to Azau costs 750 rubles per head.
Weather (show)
At the height of 5,000 m or more, the weather is rather cold: -20 in summer; -40 in winter. Base camp - +15-+30 in summer, 0-+15 in spring and autumn. At 3500m -2- +20 in summer, -530 in spring and autumn.
Sometimes wild winds blow. We prepare ourselves for the worst weather conditions. At the same time, it can be rather hot down the valley.
Service staff (show)
Full board in the Caucasus - 2 meals a day in hotel restaurants. Pocket lunch while touring and climbing. We offer you complete and balanced meals useful for people exercising up in the mountains. They include vegetables, meat, fish, bread, cereals, tea, coffee, and milk.
If you have food restrictions (for example you are a vegetarian), you should warn us beforehand. Well try our best to make you feel comfortable.
Accommodation (show)
Our basic hotels are Ozon, Povorot and Chiran.
These are modern, comfortable hotels having all the necessary infrastructure and comfortable rooms, and with polite and responsive staff.
At the Base camp and at the storm camp on 4600m we stay at the comfortable 2-bed tents.
Transport (show)
For transfer we use comfortable off-roads (depending on the group size) like Land Rover, ex-military truck GAZ-66 or UAZ. Transfer airport hotel airport is a group one and is made once on the arrival day and once on the departure day. In case of necessity we can book an individual car for extra fee.
Payment conditions (show)
Please meet our rules of payment conditions. To provide a successful and safe realization of the program we are to undertake definite efforts and preparation which require expenses.
Down payment when booking is 5000 rub. In case you cancel the trip it is not refundable.
Full payment should be done not later than 20 days prior to the beginning of the program. If the full payment is not done in this term we consider the trip cancelled and quit the booking.Please, be aware that the first payment is not refunded in this case.
You can pay in cash in our offices in Moscow, make a bank money transfer or via credit card on-line.
Mobile connection (show)
During any trek or hike the guide has a radio and a satellite telephone at his disposal. It is possible to get the connection in any place. There is no mobile connection at the base camp and higher. You can have the satellite connection for extra fee.
WiFi is available at the hotels.


You got question? Call us +7(495) 229-50-70 (Moscow)


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Home  >  Russia. Caucasus. Elbrus Region (Prielbrusye)  >  Climbing Mount Elbrus from the West

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